Quick facts
- Striped cucumber beetles and spotted cucumber beetles are pests in Minnesota.
- Both species can be found on cucurbits (squash, cucumbers, melons, etc.).
- Cucumber beetles can damage foliage and fruit.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelons are severely affected by bacterial wilt, a disease that cucumber beetles carry.
- There are nonchemical and chemical options available for managing cucumber beetles.
How to identify cucumber beetles
Adult striped cucumber beetle (Acalymma vittatum)
- About 1/5 inch long, 1/10 inch wide.
- It has yellow wings with three vertical black stripes.
- The head and antennae are black.
- The prothorax (the first area behind the head) is orangish.
Adult spotted cucumber beetle (Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi)
- Similar in size, shape and color.
- Instead of stripes, this beetle has 12 black spots on its wing covers.
- This beetle is less common in Minnesota.
Both species' larvae are small (3/8 in) and creamy white. They live and pupate underground. The eggs of both species are pale orange-yellow and are laid in groups at the base of plants.
Biology of cucumber beetles
Striped cucumber beetles
In Minnesota, beetles usually do not become active until the first week of June in the southern portion of the state. Striped cucumber beetles may not reliably overwinter in Minnesota every year, but may survive mild winters in leaf litter.
- Adults feed on blossoms of flowering plants.
- They mate and lay eggs in the soil at the base of host plants (cucumber, squash, etc.). Eggs hatch in several weeks.
- Larvae feed on plant roots and underground parts of stems. They transform into pupae in the soil, emerging later in the summer as adults.
- Adults return to cucurbit plants and feed on the flowers and foliage later in the summer.
- It takes about 40 to 60 days to go from an egg to an adult.
- There is typically one generation per year.
Spotted cucumber beetles
- Do not survive the winter in Minnesota.
- Adults migrate from the Southern U.S. in late June or early July.
- Adults lay eggs on non-cucurbit plants such as corn and other grasses.
- Larvae feed on the roots of grasses and transform into pupae in the soil.
- It takes about 40-60 days from egg to adult.
- There is only one generation per year.
Damage caused by cucumber beetles
Adult feeding is most damaging when cucurbit plants are small (third true-leaf stage). Beyond the direct feeding damage, striped cucumber beetles can carry the bacteria that causes bacterial wilt. Bacterial wilt causes cucumbers and melons to wilt and die prematurely.
- Adults feed on the foliage and blossoms and, when populations are high, they also feed on the stems and fruit.
- Striped cucumber beetle can totally defoliate small plants.
- Pumpkins and winter squash can tolerate high levels of defoliation after the third true-leaf stage.
- Melons and cucumbers are susceptible to bacterial wilt, which makes them very vulnerable to cucumber beetle feeding all season long.
- Once crops begin flowering, beetles move to feed on the pollen and flowers. This feeding doesn’t reduce yield.
- High populations late in the season can feed on fruit; this damage is cosmeti
Managing cucumber beetles
Monitoring
- Concentrate your efforts on striped cucumber beetles. It is rare to see spotted cucumber beetles early in the season, and their numbers usually are too low to require treatment.
- Pay attention to plants in the cotyledon and first to third true-leaf stage; high amounts of cucumber beetle feeding can kill young plants.
- Once squash and pumpkin plants have four or more leaves, they can tolerate some cucumber beetle feeding.
- Continue monitoring melons and cucumbers, as their susceptibility to bacterial wilt makes cucumber beetles more important to manage.
Cultural controls
Keeping your garden clean
- Remove weeds in and around your garden because they may be potential hosts for adults.
- If a plant shows signs of bacterial wilt, remove the infested plant before more beetles can feed on the plant and spread the bacterium.
- After the summer ends, remove garden debris and leaf litter to reduce places where adult beetles spend the winter.
Use trap crops
A trap crop is a plant that attracts pests away from your main garden plants. The plants draw pests to themselves and away from the plants you want to harvest.
- Plant a few highly attractive cucurbits, such as blue hubbard squash.
- Plant your trap crop a week or two before you plant the rest of your cucurbits, as the beetles tend to show up in one early-season flush.
- Once striped cucumber beetle numbers build up in the trap crop, treat them with an effective pesticide.
Physical controls
- Once plants are established, placing thick straw around the base of the plants can make it harder for cucumber beetles to lay their eggs.
- If you have just a few plants in your garden, you can physically remove the beetles by swatting them into a bucket of soapy water.
- You can protect your cucurbits by using a floating row cover or a similar barrier during early to mid-June to keep the striped cucumber beetles from reaching plants.
- Remove it when plants start flowering. Most plants in the cucurbit family require insect pollination, and row covers prevent pollinators from reaching the flowers.
Using pesticides
Use pesticides only when necessary.
Watch your plants regularly for striped cucumber beetles when new leaves emerge from seed leaves. If you find two or more beetles per plant on 25% of your plants in the cotyledon stage, apply a pesticide.
- Once beetles are present, monitor more frequently (every few days).
- Once plants are at the second or third true-leaf stage, check the defoliation level.
- Monitoring the defoliation level is much faster and still allows for the detection of bacterial wilt.
- If you find 25% of a given plant defoliated, apply pesticides.
Striped cucumber beetles seen later in the summer can be ignored as they cause little or no damage.
There are many products available. Read the label to determine whether it works on cucumber beetles, whether it can be used on the plant you wish to treat, and how to use the product safely and effectively.
CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Be sure that the plant you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use. And observe the number of days between pesticide application and when you can harvest your crop. Remember, the label is the law.
The following information is specific to fruit farms and those growing fruit for commercial sale or use.
Monitoring for cucumber beetles
- Scout at least weekly, increasing frequency once you find beetles.
- Concentrate your efforts on striped cucumber beetles. It is rare to see spotted cucumber beetles early in the season, and their numbers usually are too low to require treatment.
- Pay attention to plants in the cotyledon and first to third true-leaf stage; high amounts of cucumber beetle feeding can kill young plants.
- Once squash and pumpkin plants have four or more leaves, they can tolerate some cucumber beetle feeding.
- Continue monitoring melons and cucumbers, as their susceptibility to bacterial wilt makes cucumber beetles more important to manage.
Cultural controls
- Removing or destroying crop residue will reduce potential overwintering areas.
- Crop rotation will make exclusion efforts more effective.
Physical controls
Exclusion
- In the field, floating row covers can be placed as seedlings emerge and plants start to grow. Remove row covers when plants begin to flower so pollination can occur.
- In the hoop house or greenhouse, insect exclusion screens can keep cucumber beetles out. A screen size of 0.8 x 1.0 mm can keep beetles out while allowing ventilation.
Trap crops
- Trap crops, or cucurbit cultivars that are highly attractive to pests, can be used to reduce feeding on the crops you actually want to harvest.
- Blue Hubbard squash is a common trap crop variety for cucumber beetles.
- Plant your trap crop two weeks earlier than your main crop, as this will attract early-emerging cucumber beetles.
- Trap crops can be treated with insecticide to prevent beetles from migrating to crops.
Kaolin clay
- Kaolin clay can deter beetle feeding. It is best used before you see major feeding.
Chemical controls
Thresholds
- Vine crops are most susceptible to cucumber beetle feeding when they are in the 1-3 leaf stage. Those that are susceptible to bacterial wilt then remain at risk all season long.
- For pumpkins and squash, use a threshold of 0.5 to 1 beetle per seedling. Once plants have 2 or more true leaves, Minnesota research suggests that treatment should be considered once beetles have defoliated 25% of leaves.
- For cucumbers and melons that are susceptible to bacterial wilt, use a threshold of 0.5 beetles per plant for seedlings and 1 per plant for older plants.
Seed treatments
- Seed treatments effectively protect young plants in the first few weeks of life. However, consider whether a seed treatment is truly necessary.
- Seed treatments offer 2-3 weeks of protection; if you hold the transplants indoors longer than that, the seed treatment will not be effective once the plants are outside.
Application timing
- Make applications before 8 a.m. or after 6 p.m., as bees are most active in the morning, and squash flowers close later in the day.
- See the Midwest Vegetable Production Guide for options. Remember to rotate chemistries to manage potential resistance issues.
CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Be sure that the plant you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use. And observe the number of days between pesticide application and when you can harvest your crop. Remember, the label is the law.
Reviewed in 2025