Quick facts
- Fertilizers add nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the soil to help plant growth.
- On every bag of fertilizer, you will find an analysis of the nutrients in the fertilizer.
- Natural and manufactured fertilizers have different characteristics.
- All types of fertilizer can contribute to pollution, if used incorrectly.
- Spot treating weeds may be more effective than using a weed-and-feed product over your entire lawn.
All fertilizers add nutrients to the soil to help plant growth. Natural and manufactured fertilizers have different qualities, but precautions must be taken when using either.
When properly applied, fertilizers pose few risks to humans or animals.
If used correctly, fertilizers can help you improve and maintain your lawn. Healthy lawns limit erosion, cool the environment and control allergens, among many other benefits.
See Environmental benefits of healthy lawns.
Why fertilize?
Fertilizers are important in lawn care because they supplement the soil with needed nutrients.
- Grass plants need nutrients because of the many stresses people apply to them.
- Grass uses nutrients to repair damage done by normal wear and mowing.
- Other plants in the landscape, such as trees, flowers and weeds, also consume the nutrients.
- Nutrients are lost when clippings are removed while mowing.
What is in fertilizer?
The three main nutrients needed by plants are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
- For a home lawn, the most essential nutrient to add on a regular basis is nitrogen.
- Phosphorus is present in high levels in many Midwestern soils.
- Adding phosphorus in the form of fertilizer is usually not needed.
- Established lawns show little response to added phosphorus.
- Because phosphorus does not easily move in the soil, additional amounts are often beneficial when establishing new turf.
- Only apply phosphorus if a soil test indicates a need.
- Potassium may need to be supplemented.
- Coarse-textured (sandy) soils often need added potassium.
- Use a soil test to determine when to add potassium.
Plants also need many other nutrients, but in very small amounts. These are called micronutrients.
Concentration of nutrients
The label on a bag of fertilizer includes an analysis of the concentration of nutrients. Each number in the analysis represents a percentage of the total weight of the product that is the actual nutrient.
- The first number indicates the amount of nitrogen, or N.
- The second number is the amount of phosphorus in the form of phosphate, P2O5.
- The third number is the amount of potassium in the form of potash, K2O.
For instance, a 10-10-10 is a balanced food with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
High numbers of each nutrient in a particular fertilizer usually mean the type can be applied less often. This is similar to the differences between a concentrated laundry detergent and a more dilute one.
Natural organic fertilizers usually have a lower concentration of nutrients than manufactured types. As a result, more organic fertilizer is needed to supply the same amount of nutrients.
It’s important to consider nutrient amounts when figuring the cost since more bags of the low-analysis fertilizer will be needed to supply the same amount of nutrients.
A soil test from the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Lab can help you determine whether your lawn lacks essential nutrients or has too much.
Fertilizing basics
Many factors affect the amount of nutrients needed for an established home lawn, including:
- Turfgrass species.
- Access to water.
- Percentage of soil organic matter.
- Amount of shade.
- Expectations of the homeowner.
Turfgrass usually needs more nitrogen than other nutrients, and lawn fertilization programs are based around this nutrient. Turfgrass gets some of the nitrogen it needs from the soil. However, homeowners may want to add supplemental nitrogen to maintain turfgrass quality that they find acceptable.
Below is a table that outlines when and how much nitrogen is recommended for established lawns based on the amount of maintenance required and the amount of soil organic matter.
Nitrogen recommendations for established lawns
| Maintenance level and practices | Low soil organic matter (N/1000 sq ft/ year) | Medium soil organic matter (N/1000 sq ft/ year) | High soil organic matter (N/1000 sq ft/ year) | All soil organic matter (N/1000 sq ft/ year) | Number and timing of applications |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High maintenance: Watered, clippings removed | 4 lbs | 3.5 lbs | 3 lbs | 2.5 lb | Four annual applications: Aug, Sept, early-Oct, May-June |
| High maintenance: Watered, clippings returned | 3 lbs | 2.5 lbs | 2 lbs | 1.5 lbs | Three annual applications: Aug, Sept, May-June |
| Medium maintenance: Some watering, clippings removed | 3 lbs | 2.5 lbs | 2 lbs | 1.5 lbs | Three annual applications: Aug, Sept, May-June |
| Medium maintenance: Some watering, clippings returned | 2 lbs | 1.5 lbs | 1 lb | 0.5 lb | Two annual applications: Sept, May-June |
| Low maintenance: No watering, clippings returned | 1 lb | 1 lb | 0.5 lb | 0.5 lb | One annual application: Sept |
Soil organic matter levels: Low = less than 3.1%; Medium = 3.1 – 4.5%; High = 4.6 – 19%; Organic soils = more than 19%. If soil organic matter level is not known, guidelines for medium soil organic matter can be used. Assuming each application does not exceed 1 lb N/1,000 sq ft (for annual applications of 1.0 lb N or greater).
There are many kinds of fertilizers available for the homeowner.
- Natural fertilizers include: Milorganite, Ringer, Sustane, manure, grass clippings, phosphate rock, potash (source of potassium)
- Manufactured fertilizers include: ammonium nitrate, urea, IBDU, sulfur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, super-phosphate, triple super-phosphate
Compost is not included because it has little nutrient value. Composts can be very beneficial as a soil amendment, adding organic matter and improving many soil properties.
Natural organic fertilizers are commonly made from waste products of various sources, ranging from chicken feathers and manure to treated sewage sludge from city waste systems. Rock phosphate and potash are mined from the earth.
Manufactured fertilizers are typically made from petroleum and natural gas. The exceptions are superphosphate and triple superphosphate, which are rock phosphate concentrated using acid reactions.
Whether natural or manufactured, fertilizer nutrients are generally not in a form that the plant can use directly.
- Only two forms of nitrogen are readily available to the plant: ammonium (NH4) and nitrate (NO3).
- All nitrogen fertilizers must be broken down to these forms regardless of their source.
- Some chemical changes and decomposition must occur before the plant takes up the nutrients.
Speed of nutrient release
The speed at which nutrients in the fertilizer become available to the plant varies depending on the product.
- Natural organic fertilizers are typically slow-release.
- They deliver nutrients over a period of time.
- Decomposition of the organic matter occurs slowly.
- Some of the manufactured fertilizers are also slow-release.
- This group includes sulfur-coated ureas, urea formaldehyde and IBDU.
- Microbial activity in the soil gradually breaks down the fertilizer.
- Fast-release fertilizers are rapidly converted to available nutrients.
- Examples include ammonium nitrate and urea.
- They are applied more frequently, at low rates.
“Weed-and-feed” products are lawn fertilizers mixed with herbicides designed to save time in lawn care. Take special care when using fertilizer-herbicide combinations.
Why use them?
- You should apply fertilizer as part of your regular lawn maintenance.
- Only use herbicides when specific weed problems occur.
- Fertilizers that include weed killers (i.e., herbicides) may not be the best choice for your lawn.
- The correct timing and post-application procedures are important for weed-and-feed products to be effective.
- Spot treating weeds may be more effective than using weed-and-feed over the entire lawn.
- Environmentally, applying fertilizers separately from weed killers is the best approach.
Disadvantages of weed-and-feed products
Timing
- For effective weed control, use herbicides at specific times during the year, depending on which weed species are targeted.
- The time of herbicide application to kill a specific weed may not be the ideal time for fertilizer application.
- Never use fertilizer-herbicide products when the herbicide would be ineffective or unnecessary.
Post-application
Water fertilizers in after application for maximum effectiveness and to reduce the chance of damaging the lawn (e.g., fertilizer burn). Many herbicides, however, need to remain on the plant leaves for effective weed control.
Weed-and-feed products often compromise the effectiveness of the fertilizer, herbicide or both during application. Always check the specific product label for any post-application requirements (e.g., whether it should be watered in or not).
Spot treatment
Fertilizer-herbicide combination products often apply much more herbicide than is needed to kill the target weeds. Where there are only scattered weeds throughout the yard, it is just as easy to spot-treat individual weeds or small areas of weeds rather than apply a weed-and-feed product over the entire lawn.
Broadleaf weed control
- Combination products specifically formulated for broadleaf weed control, such as for dandelion, require contact with the weed leaves.
- Weeds must be visible and growing at the time of application to be most effective.
- This type of product will not prevent broadleaf weeds from germinating and establishing.
When to use
Fertilizer-crabgrass preventer (pre-emergent) combinations contain a weed preventer specifically targeting the tiny seedlings of warm-season annual grasses (crabgrass and yellow foxtail). The weed preventer works as the grasses emerge from the seed, but before they are visible above ground.
A spring application of fertilizer that contains a crabgrass preventer could be an appropriate choice if you wait until early May. However, crabgrass preventers should be put down much earlier in the spring than fertilizers.
If fertilizers are applied to a lawn too early, the environmental loss of these nutrients can be a concern. The best approach is to apply fertilizers and crabgrass preventers separately.
As with most weeds, crabgrass will not likely be uniform throughout a yard. A crabgrass preventer may only need to be applied along areas where the lawn grasses are less competitive. These include areas along curbs, sidewalks, narrow boulevards and driveways.
CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Be sure that the area you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use. Remember, the label is the law.
Fertilizer FAQs
Are manufactured fertilizers going to burn the lawn?
- "Burning" occurs when fertilizer is so concentrated around the roots that it essentially pulls water out of the plant.
- Burning most commonly occurs when a lawn is fertilized in hot weather or without being watered.
- This is particularly a problem with fast-release fertilizers.
- Slow-release products, both natural or manufactured, also have the potential of burning, but the nutrients usually do not build up such high concentrations in the soil.
- To prevent burning of the lawn, always water after applying any fertilizer, unless the label recommends otherwise.
Are manufactured fertilizers more likely to cause pollution?
All fertilizers must be broken down to the same nutrient form. All types of fertilizer can contribute to pollution, if used incorrectly.
- The leaching of nitrates may be of concern in areas of sandy soils when over-watering and over-fertilization occur, particularly with the use of fast-release forms.
- Excess phosphorus has also been involved in lake and stream pollution.
- If the lawn is dense and vigorous, however, it contributes very little, if any, to runoff. The grass roots bind the soil tightly, promoting infiltration of water and nutrients.
- Do not leave fertilizer and organic matter (lawn clippings, leaves) on sidewalks, driveways and gutters. These contribute substantially to nutrient runoff into lakes and streams.
See Water wisely.
Does fertilizer damage the soil and the creatures that live in it?
Some nitrogen fertilizers tend to reduce the pH of the soil and thatch slightly.
- pH is a measure of acidity, with 7 being neutral, below 7 is acidic, and above 7 is alkaline.
- Most commonly grown turfgrasses do best at a pH in the 6.0 to 6.5 range.
- In areas of already low pH (less than 5), acidifying fertilizers may be of concern.
- Low pH reduces the population of earthworms and certain microbes.
- In Minnesota and many other parts of the Midwest, pH tends to be rather high (above 7) along with high buffering capacity.
- Buffering capacity refers to the soil’s ability to resist pH change.
- In a soil with high buffering capacity, it is very difficult to reduce the pH using fertilizers and other soil amendments.
- In those soils, the use of acidifying fertilizers may actually be beneficial.
Reviewed in 2024