Growing currants and gooseberries in the home garden

• While they will tolerate marginal soil, currants and gooseberries perform best in rich, well-drained soil.
• Test your soil for pH and nutrient needs.
• Add organic material such as peat or compost according to soil test recommendations.
  • Composted material rich in nitrogen, such as well-composted manure, makes an excellent fertilizer for currants and gooseberries.
  • Because composted materials release nutrients more slowly than synthetic fertilizers, apply a few shovels-full per plant in late fall.
• Do not directly put chemical fertilizer in the planting hole when planting currants. This can harm the plant roots.

Bare-root and potted plants

• Currants are self-fertile, but research suggests that planting more than one variety results in better yields.
• Plants ordered from online or mail-order sources are usually sent bare-root (not actively growing), while plants from a local nursery will likely be potted and actively growing.
• Establish your new shrubs after the risk of temperatures lower than 20°F has passed and the soil is workable. Plant earlier in the season to avoid heat stress for the newly planted currants.
• When handling bare-root plants, keep the plants cool and moist until they go into the ground.
  • Do not allow the roots to dry or become waterlogged.
  • Just before planting, soak the roots of bare-root plants in a bucket of water for three to four hours.
• Plant currants and gooseberries at least an inch deeper than they were in the nursery to bury the root collar and encourage the development of additional roots.
  • Lower, drooping canes can be covered with soil to encourage rooting, which can help maximize a plant’s lifespan.
• Dig the planting hole wider than the root system to spread out the roots while planting. This will ensure good establishment.
• Space plants as close as three feet apart.
  • Black currants are more vigorous. Space them four to five feet apart.

Initial pruning

• After planting bare-rooted plants, prune all canes (1, 2, and 3-year-old branches) that are healthy and viable to about six buds to encourage vigorous growth.
• Remove any weak, dead, or broken canes. 

Mulch

• At planting time, provide two to four inches of organic mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or compost.
• Mulching cools the soil, conserves water and suppresses weeds. These benefits are preferable in a partially shaded site, and essential in a sunny spot.
• Beginning the year after planting, renew mulch annually.
• You may need to apply extra nitrogen fertilizer if you use a low-nitrogen mulch such as wood chips or sawdust.
  • Signs of nitrogen deficiency include yellowing leaves (older leaves yellow first) and poor growth.

Care through the seasons

• April, May: Plant new currant and gooseberry bushes.
• May, June: During bloom, look for insect and disease symptoms.
• June through September: Watch for powdery mildew; treat or prune as needed.
• July, August: Harvest.
• October, November: Remove fallen leaves and other plant debris before snowfall. Apply composted manure before snowfall.
• March: Prune weak, dead wood; thin to open canopy before growth starts.

Controlling weeds

• After planting, remove weeds regularly within the canopy of the plant.
• Grasses that spread by runners are especially competitive and can be more challenging to manage.
• Maintain a three to four-inch layer of mulch to prevent weed growth.

Insects and other creatures

• Insect pests are a minor concern for home growers of currants and gooseberries. Infestations are uncommon and rarely cause major damage.
• Possible insect pests include aphids, cane borers, spider mites, fruit worms and fruit flies. Other insects in the garden usually control these pests.
• Avoid damage by maintaining a healthy, vigorous plant.
  • Select a site with good soil and ample light.
  • Providing adequate water.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Remove affected or dead plant parts and plant debris.

Preventing and managing diseases

Currants are easy to manage in the Upper Midwest and do not require extensive measures to control diseases. Careful site selection and good cultural practices such as mulching, pruning, and sanitation will minimize pest problems.

Powdery mildew

• Powdery mildew can be a problem in some years and some locations.
• The disease impacts the ability of plant leaves to photosynthesize and can eventually infect and harm the fruit.
• Prevention is the best measure for controlling powdery mildew.
  • Plant mildew-resistant varieties (see variety tables above).
  • Select planting sites with good airflow and plenty of sunlight to reduce spore germination.
  • Prune regularly to maintain an open canopy that supports good airflow.
  • Remove dead plant debris from the area to lower the amount of fungal spores that can infect your plants.
  • Remove affected leaves and shoots showing evidence of powdery mildew to prevent its spread during the growing season.
    • Cover infected leaves, shoots, dead plant parts, etc. in a hot compost pile, or put them in the trash. 

White pine blister rust

• Currants, gooseberries and other plants in the Ribes genus play a part in white pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola).
• Blister rust is little more than a nuisance to the grower of currants, but can be devastating to white pine trees.
• Newer currant and gooseberry varieties have been bred with rust resistance, so the planting of these fruits is no longer a concern in the Upper Midwest region.
  • Planting remains restricted in some areas of the U.S.
• When purchasing plants, choose varieties with known resistance to white pine blister rust.

Pruning

• Proper pruning will improve sun penetration into the plant and maintain good air circulation to minimize disease.
• Prune established currant and gooseberry shrubs annually, sometime between late winter and early spring, after the risk of extreme winter temperatures has passed, and before new growth appears.
• During the first three years of growth, allow four or five canes to develop each year. Remove only weak or damaged wood.
• Beginning in the fourth year, prune out the oldest wood annually. Remove any weak new growth.
• A mature shrub should have 9 to 12 canes once pruning is completed.
• Fruit is produced on one-, two- and three-year-old wood, known as canes. Try to keep three to four canes of each age.
• Always remove unwanted canes as close to the ground as possible.
• Gooseberries: Look for canes arching over with tips near, or lying on the ground. Prune these canes to prevent them from rooting at the tips when touching the ground.

Harvest and storage

• Monitor currant and gooseberry fruits for a change in color, flavor, fruit firmness, and ease of separation from the plant to tell when they are ripe.
• When using the fruit for jam, harvest it before it is fully ripe so natural fruit pectin levels will be higher.
• Cool fruit quickly and put it in covered containers or closed bags.
  • This will maintain humidity levels and prevent drying when storing fruit in the refrigerator.
  • Promptly cooled berries will keep in the refrigerator for up to several weeks.
• Fruit is delicious while fresh, right off the plant.
• Currants and gooseberries make excellent preserves and juice.
• You can use berries of all colors to make wine.
• For a nice treat in summer, freeze clusters of berries and add them to glasses of iced tea, lemonade or your favorite cocktail.